City Guide: Seville, Spain
This city guide series will give you a breakdown of my favorites and recommendations from the cities I visited, so I had to start with my favorite city in Europe, Sevilla. In English, it’s spelled Seville, but I will probably use them interchangeably: apologies in advance. As the location of my study abroad during college, Sevilla is my European hometown, where my Spanish family lives, where I know the winding backroads…well, maybe not perfectly, but definitely better than the rest of Europe. Andalucia, the southern part of Spain, is the birthplace of many of the iconic traditions people associate with Spain: flamenco, bullfighting, the discovery of the New World. As the capital of Andalucia, Sevilla is therefore the most definitively Spanish of all the cities in Spain, in my extremely biased opinion. So without further ado,
Where to Stay
Unlike Madrid and Barcelona, almost all of Sevilla is affordable on a budget, so it’s hard to go wrong when picking a place to stay. Each barrio (neighborhood) has a little bit different flavor, so there’s plenty of options as you look for your homebase. Here are my top three recommendations:
Barrio Santa Cruz - This is quintessential Sevilla. The historic heart of the city, with winding cobblestone streets, local restaurants, and flamenco music floating in the air, it doesn’t get more Andalusian than this. Just about all of Sevilla is walkable, but staying in Santa Cruz will put you within minutes of the Alcazar, La Giralda, and the Museo del Baile Flamenco.
Barrio Triana - Formerly the gypsy quarter, Triana still twinkles with it’s own special magic. Famous for it’s extravagant tile work and white-washed houses, Triana gives a more residential feel than Santa Cruz, without sacrificing charm. Plus, you’ll get to walk across one of Sevilla’s gorgeous bridges each day as you set off to see the sights.
Barrio El Arenal - Between the Alcazar and the bullfighting ring, you’ll find Barrio El Arenal. More modern than the previous two barrios, you’ll find plenty of shops and restaurants, but there’s juuuuuuust enough distance from the historic center to save you a little money.
Where to Eat
Mercado de Triana - Tapas (small plates, usually finger foods, generally the evening meal) are the name of the game in Spain, and the market in Triana is the perfect place for a crash course. Go from stall to stall and pick a different tapas to sample the variety of flavors and cuisines that meet in Sevilla. There is also a museum and a collection of bullheads from Sevilla’s famous matadors.
Catalina Bar de Tapas
Another great tapas restaurant, you can certainly get a full meal by sampling their wide selection, but Catalina also offers full-sized portions if you’re in the mood for a bigger meal. The interior of the restaurant is charming, but nothing beats their patio as the sun sets and the city cools.
La Paella Sevilla - Paella (a delicious dish of rice, seafood, veggies and chorizo) is practially the national dish of Spain. If you want an authentic taste of this Spanish staple, La Paella Sevilla is the place to go.
La Campana - Combination candy store, gelato shop, and bakery, La Campana is the perfect place to sit and rest for a few minutes as you explore Sevilla. In operation since 1885, they really know what they’re doing. Spain is known for it’s nougat (turrón in Spanish), and this is a great place to try it or buy some to take home for your friends and family!
Freiduría Puerta de la Carne
Want a quick, filling meal on the go? Grab some fried fish, then head to the nearby Jardines de Murillo for a picnic!
Where to Shop
Plaza Nueva
Plaza Nueva is the high street, and a great mix of historic and modern Sevilla. The road branches into two parallel streets, Sierpes and Tetuán, which both offer a variety of shopping opportunities, and at the end of Sierpes, you’ll find La Campana, the sweet shop mentioned above. El Corte Ingles, a great supermarket, is also about a block west of Tetuán.
Day Trips
Granada - One of the most breathtaking places in the world is the Alhambra, in Granada. If you want a taste of Morocco without having to leave Europe, Granada is a great addition to your itinerary.
Cordoba - This city is home to La Mezquita, the perfect representation of the blend of cultures in Spain. In it’s history, it’s been a synagogue, a mosque, and now a cathedral. Check it out on your way to Granada!
Ronda - One of the White Hill Towns, Ronda is another great stop between Sevilla and Granada. You can hike down into the breathtaking gorge, or enjoy the view from one of the cliff-side cafes. It also has proud heritage of matadors which you can learn about at the bullfighting museum!
My Itinerary
Get started with a free guided walking tour of some of my favorite sights using the Rick Steves’ Audio Europe App! Everyone’s itinerary will look a little different depending on how many days you can stay, what you’re most interested in seeing, etc, but I’ve compiled my favorite Sevilla sites onto a 3 day itinerary using one of my favorite trip-planning tools, Visit a City. This itinerary doesn’t include any of the day trips I mentioned, and all of which I highly recommend, so I hope you’ll add a couple extra days in Andalucia to explore. It’s also not a jam-packed itinerary, and that’s intentional. You rarely have three full days in a city, as some part of your time will probably be spent traveling to or from Sevilla. But more importantly, part of travelling is experiencing the culture, and Spain, especially southern Spain, is an easy-going place to be. So I encourage you, lovingly,
Embrace the Spanish mind-set and enjoy a little downtime. There are plenty of other attractions you can add to the itinerary on Visit A City if you REALLY want to.